The most subtle of all conspiracies.

5  2014-06-13 by darthandroid420

Not long ago oil manufacturers started pushing this new synthetic oil. They have exorbitant claims like 10,000 miles between oil changes, and longer engine life. Manufacturers of autos like bmw are saying thats ok. And are recommending sythetic oil and longer time between oil changes. As a mechanic i think this is ridiculous, for a few reasons. Just hear me out on this. First over time carbon gets into the oil thats why its black, and carbon isnt a great lube. Second hydrocarbons from burnt and unburnt fuel do make their way into the oil this breaks down the molocules. Engine bearings are designed so that the oil molecule itself is the actual ball bearing, and the "bearing" is the race. When oil molecules break down, they reach a point where they no longer roll inside the race of the bearing and they start falling out of the sides. At the same point the molecule is so small that it seeps out of gaskets and seals. Ive learned that the majority of people dont pay attention their vehicles until its too late. Here is the conspiracy part. Car is fine if you change the oil every 3000 miles as it has always been. Wait 8000 or 10000 miles and over the course of 100,000 miles that engine will be in much worse shape than the same engine with 300k and the oil change every 3k. What happens when you run out of oil? Knocking, clatering, no oil pressure, a few seconds with no oil pressure and permanent damage will occur. A few minutes with no oil and the engine will seize, lock up, die. Guess what youre either paying a ton to get it fixed, or ?

40 comments

Its all planned obsolescence. The faster the car breaks down the faster you get a new one.

This is why I do all repairs on my own or with aid of friends when needed.

Bingo or buy a new one.

Yes and its the same for electronics that take expertise to repair, they routinely die after a year. You're forced to continue the same purchase

As far as doing your own repairs yourself; more power to you. I have had alot of basketcases where people tried to fix it themselves, and i ended up with a box of parts and mess to deal with. All i can say about that is know when youre over your head. The hard part is finding an honest mechanic.

Thats where a few good friends I have come in handy.

I have a buddy who can fix anything thrown at him for the most part. I have learned a lot from him and he does not even charge me or most friends. I do pay him what ever I can afford and use a wrench and learn from him in the process.

I also use forums for whatever car it is. I have helped him do some things faster by simply searching a forum and seeing it was a common problem and someone came up with a quick trick.

Overall though the feeling you get from rebuilding your transmission or replacing a head gasket and everything works when your done is a great one.

Like the time I locked my keys in my truck and only had 30 minutes to get it running. Then I found this, How to use a car antenna to unlock a ford ranger

Actually you make a good point. About three years ago the rubber shit of the engine mounts on my car hardened and cracked off, allowing this god-aweful noise whenever load was applied to the engine. I was seriously strapped for cash at the time (couldnt even afford the a carton of cigs or full tank of gas). So i bought a culk gun amd some heavy duty extra high temp culking stuff (dunno what its called, but it was rated for several hundred degrees) and sprayed it where the rubber shit used to be.

Five bucks and it worked like a charm. However, i feel bad for the mechanic who ill have to pay to fuck with it whenever i get some new mounts...

According to car manufacturers the 3k oil change is not necessary, and was popularized by oil commercials. You say you are a mechanic, then you go on to claim that low oil will cause knocking; that's not true and any mechanic would know that. I think I'm going to go with the engineers on this one.

Low oil doesnt cause knocking? You havent the slightest idea what youre talking about.

Oil pressure is actually created by the clearances between engine parts. If that clearance becomes excessive, you will see a drop in oil pressure. Oil pumps create a volume of fluid, not pressure. It's the resistance to that flow that creates the pressure. With your engine, that resistance is created by the clearances between the moving parts. A knocking noise from your engine can also mean that you're low on oil. One of the first things to do if you hear a noise from your engine is to check the oil level and condition. If the oil is low, top it off and recheck for your noise. If it goes away, consider yourself lucky, but be on notice. If your oil was low, there is a reason. Source: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car?start=1 Stfu

Idiot, there's two kinds of knock

Rod knock

Preignition

Piston slap too, due to worn or incorrectly gapped/sized rings often combined with knuckle bearing (rod end) wear, though it is not technically the same as a rod knock. Usually only occurs when someone really has no idea how to blueprint.

To give insight as to why the lad thinks like he does, the knock sensors are tuned to retard timing to reduce pre-ignition in the event of bad fuel or extreme conditions.

Now, most all of these things are moot with an electric motor. The maintenance is far less, no burned HC fouling up the lubricating system, fewer moving parts... The downsides are rapidly dwindling.

Buying a gasoline powered vehicle right now is like buying one of the last steam ships.

But then I won't have the brubrubrubrubrubru that I love

You won't miss it. I promise. An electric motor vehicle takes off like a slingshot. Max torque all the time. There is no curve. The boost is in the sweet spot for the entire rpm range, 0-10k.

Besides, autonomous cars are right around the corner. Manufacturers are going to become autonomous taxi building and maintenance businesses. Maybe they will retain some purpose built vehicles for recreational purposes. But general transport, out among the public? Why would you want to do that when the autonomous function will allow a higher top speed?

That's how they are probably going to really sell the concept. 160 mph+ long distance convoy hauls if you turn the controls over to the computer. Otherwise there will be speed limiters that don't allow you to exceed the posted human driver speed limits without being issued a ticket for disengaging safety protocols. Or having the manual function disabled on your vehicle.

I do like that, except for the autonomous part. I love driving man. It's one of my hobbies, I'll roll down the windows, get some sweet jams going, and boost around town.

Also, they don't make electric cars with manual transmissions for whatever reason. Once they do I'll consider it

Yeah they do. Well i guess not new. They sell a electric conversion kit. Ive already seen several electric 60's and 70's vw beetles. And they are way faster than stock. Also seen a porsche converted. Both manual. http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=167

That's actually pretty fucking cool

That is extremely cool! Thanks for the link to that.

http://www.plettenberg-motoren.net/index.php/en/motor-serias-nova/motor-serias-nova-150

Have you seen these motors? They have extremely high output to weight ratio.

Exactly, preignition is reffered to by mechanics as pinging

This guy works for the man apparently.

Low oil DOES cause knocking

I drive an sti

Strictly change oil every 2700 miles and it runs like a dream (75xxx miles, 2004)

Preventive maintainence is always cheaper than trying fix it after the fact. Changing oil religiously is one of the best things you can do for any vehicle.

That doesn't mean it's required every 2700 miles though, just that you're choosing to spend x amount more money on oil changes.

Subarus have a lot of blowby, which causes the oil to dirty much much faster. Subaru recommends 3400. My car is running way higher boost than stock. So I'm gonna continue doing what I'm doing.

That is ridiculously short interval*. You could safely double that, as long as you check levels between changes.

Edit:*as always, specific application information is important. I was not correct.

Not going to

Subarus have a lot of blowby, which causes the oil to dirty much much faster. Subaru recommends 3400. My car is running way higher boost than stock. So I'm gonna continue doing what I'm doing.

Yup i second that. Subarus have alot of blowby. Im doing an overhual on an EA81 right now and thats its number one problem. And a heavy rod knock from LOW OIL.

Yep. Most subaru owners don't know to check oil at every few full ups.

If it's low, add more.

If it's really low, then you have a problem

Ah. Gotcha. What did you bump up to, 12-14 psi?

Edit: Brain fart. ^

Idk if you're trying to diss me, They come stock with 14.5

Right now I hit 17-20 in the summer and 19-24 in the winter

Nope. I am unfamiliar with subarus. Very familiar with Mercedes and GM products. (And large diesels)

A lot of vehicles that are forced induction are only around 7 psi stock. A boost to around 12 psi from 7 usually doesn't require major adjustments or parts replacement. (larger injectors to shorten the injector cycle to deliver more fuel faster, higher flow fuel pumps, dished pistons for further reduced compression, alcohol injection, intercoolers, etcetera.)

I like to overbuild things and keep them well within safe tolerances. Because I like my vehicles to be as reliable as possible.

Anyhow. Without you saying anything about your set-up, which is what I was trying to figure out, I made my assumption on the conservative side. I looked into the 2004 STI last night and skimmed an article about increasing boost with stock components.

14.5 psi stock... That is impressive.

Yeah, all I have is a turbo back exhaust, boost controller, intake and a few other very small mods with a tune

Pushing 100 more wheel torque over stock and 50 more horsepower. Very fun cars to mod.

That sounds like it is a blast to drive! Have you done any track days?

(should probably take this convo off the thread...)

Haha too late, I call for a mutiny of this thread

I haven't tracked it yet, don't have the time or balls to do that

But I take it to the mountains and do my own rallying, tons of fun. But since my car payments are pretty darn high each month I try to baby it whenever I can

This is how they will get the middle and lower classes walking everywhere. Hence the reason "walkable" and "bikeable" cities are being touted as the places to be. They're poverty friendly cities. Can't afford a new car? Walk your ass to work. Ride your bike in the snow grandma.

The company I work for issues out vehicles to thousands of employees so they actually invested in a study to see when oil changes are necessary as a money-saving tactic. It was determined that you don't need to get an oil change til the 5-7k mile mark. If you check your oil occassionally and you are at a good level you can easily go 5-7k (depending on the kind of driving you are doing) without changing your oil.

I have no doubt that oil companies fuck us over vehicularly.

For instance, did you knoe that volkswagen built a csr that gets ridiculous gas milrage (on the order of 100mpg, more i think, but this is my conservative guess as i dont quite remember the details) but the oil companies who suck the politicians dicks convinced them to not allow it? It was something like thst, anyways. Big Oil dont like good cars.

Btw, i drive a vw golf (2003). I currently just reached a quarter million miles, and i change my oil every seven to ten thousand miles. However, i use lucas oil stabilizer every change, so im sure thats helped. Before you ask, my car still runs like a beauty.

Let me just say this: You are a fucking idiot if you cite wikipedia as a source. Do i really need to explain why?

Idiot, there's two kinds of knock

Rod knock

Preignition

Yes and its the same for electronics that take expertise to repair, they routinely die after a year. You're forced to continue the same purchase

You won't miss it. I promise. An electric motor vehicle takes off like a slingshot. Max torque all the time. There is no curve. The boost is in the sweet spot for the entire rpm range, 0-10k.

Besides, autonomous cars are right around the corner. Manufacturers are going to become autonomous taxi building and maintenance businesses. Maybe they will retain some purpose built vehicles for recreational purposes. But general transport, out among the public? Why would you want to do that when the autonomous function will allow a higher top speed?

That's how they are probably going to really sell the concept. 160 mph+ long distance convoy hauls if you turn the controls over to the computer. Otherwise there will be speed limiters that don't allow you to exceed the posted human driver speed limits without being issued a ticket for disengaging safety protocols. Or having the manual function disabled on your vehicle.